Fine dining, backcountry style

Kitchen prep.

Kitchen prep.

I get a serious kick out of reading the restaurant reviews from one of the writers of my local newspaper. The guy knows his food, and his recommendations are not taken lightly.

I also confess to being a huge fan of the television programs Anthony Bourdain produces. Part of it is the travel element, but also his wicked sense of humor, excellent screenwriting and music tastes. On top of all that, I want to eat the things he eats.

I’ve never been a cook of a chef, and I’m not the guy you would want writing about cuisine. I just like to eat, and eat well. The fitness side of me wants to treat food as fuel, but the rest of me says otherwise. Taste matters. So does setting.

This is a particular problem for those of us who like to spend time outdoors. Sure, if you car camp or otherwise have access to the tools that make cooking away from home easy, you can work wonders. But what if you’re backpacking for several days? Living from a tent? Packing as light as possible to cut weight? Cooking with a camp stove?

Often times, those dining experiences are relegated to dehydrates foods, energy bars, trail mix and powder drink mixes. Or maybe some beans and rice. Often those backcountry or outdoor dining experiences are long on atmospherics and short on taste.

But not always. I got to thinking of a few times where the food, the surroundings and the company made for some of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had.

Serve yourself-style. As fresh as it gets.

Serve yourself-style. As fresh as it gets.

Catch of the day

If you’re stuck living away from the coasts, you know all about bad seafood. The fresher, the better. And that doesn’t happen very often when you live far from the sea. All we usually get that somewhat qualifies as fresh fish come from catfish filets gleaned from large fish farms.

But all is not lost. You actually can live inland and get a meal more fresh than anything served at a Boston bistro or San Francisco eatery.

In this scenario, I was with my brother-in-law, Mark, somewhere near the town of Eagle in western Colorado. Inside a small alpine valley was a mountain stream, with its flow interrupted by frequent beaver ponds.

Storming through the weeds and sloshing away in this little wetland, we’re on the prowl for brook trout. They don’t get very big – a foot-long brookie is a whopper – but they are quite common and oh so tasty.

On the streams, we searched for those sweet spots behind boulders, in front of riffles and around the bends. But the real action was in the beaver ponds. Lots of hungry fish in still, deep pools carefully engineered by those tree-gnawing rodents we all know and love.

The end of the day brought us a modest catch, but more than enough for dinner. Mark was the man in this scenario. He came prepared. Corn meal, salt, pepper and some vegetable oil. We cleaned the fish at the campsite, fired up the stove and fried up a few filets for the evening meal. The simple ingredients, paired with the brookies’ light, flaky and tender meat turned out to be the perfect end to that day.

I dare you to match that dinner in terms of freshness. You can’t surpass it. Straight from the stream, to the campsite, to the pan and on my plate within a couple of hours. That’s how you do fish.

Only the finest of dining companions will do.

Only the finest of dining companions will do.

Fusion fare

First, we went up 1,000 feet. Then down 1,000 feet. Then up 4,000 feet.

And it was then that we were only half done, atop the summit of Mount of the Holy Cross last fall. The next half of the journey would be retracing all those steps back to camp. Twelve miles round-trip, and 6,000 feet of total elevation gain.

A simple breakfast and high-calorie snacks helped power me through that ascent, but there is only so much sweet-tasting stuff you can handle before something more savory is required.

That’s not just a preference. It’s fact. When you’re burning through thousands of calories on such an endeavor, your body needs its salts. That’s why you see pretzels and salted potatoes sometimes offered during long races for runners’ consumption.

I was too tired and lazy to do much cooking myself. So I resigned myself to eating whatever edibles I had left at camp before retiring for the night.

But being among a group of mountain people, and mountain people being generally awesome, generosity abounded.

A couple of dudes grilled up some bratwursts over the campfire. They then hurried those tubes of meaty, fatty goodness away, sliced them up, then plopped them into a pot filled with mac and cheese and a sprinkling of diced peppers.

Best mac and cheese ever. A got a sampling of it just as it came off a two-burner Coleman stove. They need to serve that mess in restaurants.

Just then, another couple confessed to over-buying on food and had a box of convenience store White Castle burgers they didn’t want. They offered it to me, which I gladly accepted. Wrapped in foil, these little grease bombs cooked nicely over the fire and filled that salty/savory urge my body craved. Such nice people! I shared what beer I had, knowing my offering was an inadequate trade.

As the night went on, more goodies were passed around, usually in the form of cookies, potato chips and fine scotch. A warm, low glow of the fire brightened the faces underneath knit caps pulled tight over folks’ heads. Hours drifted on and a whole bunch of stories were swapped between people who all seemed to know each other well from past ascents, and yet included me just the same. I wasn’t an equal to any of them, but felt a part of the gang nonetheless, even if temporarily. This was their world, and I was just a guest.

And one of the best things about being an outsider invited in is feeling the gratitude toward people’s hospitality. The best meal isn’t always about atmospherics, mood-setting or even the quality of the cuisine. Sometimes it’s the company you keep.

The right setting can make all the difference.

The right setting can make all the difference.

Breakfast for three

So I noted earlier that great meals aren’t always about the setting in which you dine. But let me tell you something: Sometimes they are.

About seven years ago, I was on a little backpacking trip in northern New Mexico. We’d hiked about five miles into the Wheeler Peak Wilderness Area near a small alpine lake somewhere around 11,000 feet.

The previous night was a little rough in terms of sleep. None one at camp had done a whole lot of sleeping in a tent lately, and certainly not at that elevation. I got up first, fired up the stove and began to boil water for the morning’s breakfast.

It was going to be simple for me: instant oatmeal. I got the water boiling, mixed it with the oats and munched on this modest meal alone just before everyone else finally roused.

The woods where we camped were gorgeous. The smell of pine was amazing. The only sounds (aside from the stirrings inside the tents) were birds greeting the morning.

And then my solitude was interrupted.

Uphill from me, a female bighorn sheep slowly ambled its way into camp, its lamb in tow. They weren’t skittish. They paused to take a look at me, and their curiosity satisfied, continued their leisurely walk downslope.

I wished everyone else there could have seen them, but then again, we had a big day of hiking ahead and they’d need all the rest they could get. And selfishly, that was a moment I kind of liked having to myself. A brief one, but very memorable. Sort of like a gift, and it was all mine.

Best breakfast ever? I won’t go that far. But certainly the most memorable. And definitely a backcountry dining experience that trumps just about anything I can think of at any restaurant to which I’ve ever been.

I think I will excuse myself from ever being a full-time food critic or foodie television rock star. But I know good eats. And I know a little something about great dining experiences, even if they don’t quite fit within the norm.

Bob Doucette

On Twitter @RMHigh7088

The Weekly Stoke: An afro-centric ascent of Denali, deadly animal encounters and a couple’s dream goes awry

Dust-laden snowpack could mean serious water issues in the U.S. (USGS photo)

Dust-laden snowpack could mean serious water issues in the U.S. (USGS photo)

Just when I think it might be a light week in the world of the outdoors, stuff happens. A lot of stuff. In the mountains, in the jungles and elsewhere. Let’s get started:

Some more news on the environmental front that is not so good. Desert dust settling on the western snowpack is having some serious repercussions.

How’s this for a TV movie of the week: Rich man meets exotic gal. They trade in their high-living digs in the U.S. to build the ultimate mansion/nature preserve on a Costa Rican jungle mountaintop. And then they went nuts. Not everyone made it out OK. From Outside Magazine.

This group of Denali climbers is made up of all-black members. Here’s a story about why they think that’s important.

Here’s a list of ideas for first ascents. It’s kinda funny.

Here’s another list that lets you know if you’re an outdoorsy person.

Five people were killed climbing a volcano in the Philippines.

A climber was killed when he was attacked by a swarm of bees.

And then there’s this animal encounter: A hiker falls to her death in France, and within an hour, vultures kinda took over from there.

And then there’s this video of Courtney Sanders finding a way to train despite injury. She’s a little hard core.

The Weekly Stoke: The mess on Everest, man fights off a bear and one runner’s journey from Boston to Oklahoma City

Mount Everest. (Wikipedia Commons photo)

Mount Everest. (Wikipedia Commons photo)

This edition of the Weekly Stoke is going to have a pretty heavy emphasis on Mount Everest, but plenty of other goodies await. It’s been an interesting week in the outdoors.

First, I’m sure that most people have heard about the fight that happened at Camp 2 on Mount Everest. And there are many conflicting stories about how it went down. In short, three European climbers got in a conflict with Sherpas setting fixed lines on Everest, which led to a brawl in which the Europeans were assaulted by angry Sherpas. The Sherpas claimed the Europeans had ice kicked down on them while rope-setting work was being done.

One of the climbers, Simone Moro, tells the tale in this post.

And here, a second member of the European team, Ueli Steck, describes his version of the events. And it seems as if it was pretty scary. The parties did get together to forge a sort of truce, but many are saying that future incidents like this are not only possible, but likely. It seems the circus that is Everest just took a very dark turn.

A couple weeks after the Boston Marathon bombings, some of the runners who were prevented from finishing that race ran in the Oklahoma City Memorial Marathon. CNN’s John Sutter tells the story of one of those runners, and weaves in some other storylines we well.

Here’s a list of the kinds of dudes you don’t want to be.

And then there’s this list — the six most dangerous hiking trails in the U.S.

And finally, the story to end all stories: A man fights off an Alaskan brown bear with nothing more than a tripod and his bare hands. Try topping  that one at the office watercooler!

The Weekly Stoke: Tales from the road, an avalanche report, cycling in schools and aerial glacier footage

(denver.cbslocal.com image)

(denver.cbslocal.com image)

We’re on time with the Weekly Stoke this time! With sweet links to boot. All of them are good reads with food for thought and discussion. Here’s what I found this week that caught my interest:

The Colorado Avalanche Information Center released its official report on an avalanche that killed five people last weekend near Loveland Pass. The technical information is interesting and that narrative of the slide is as detailed as it is heartbreaking. Be careful out there, folks.

Outside Magazine thinks mountain biking might be the next big thing in high school sports.

Want to know what’s ahead of someone who decides to drive across the world? The Adventure Journal does an interview with a guy who, with his wife, is doing just that. Fascinating read.

Speaking of road warriors, this blogger writes about some of her not-so-pleasant encounters while out on the highways. Being a free-spirited, adventurer-driven traveler has its downsides. A good read with a good question from Gina Begin.

In India, bull surfing is a thing. The photos of this are awesome.

And finally, watch this video showing an aerial view of Alaskan glaciers. Simply gorgeous.

PAUSE 4 from PAUSE on Vimeo.

5 killed in Colorado avalanche identified

The sites of Saturday's avalanche near Loveland Pass, Colo. Reports indicate that some blocks of snow were the size of golf carts, and that the avalanche was up to 8 feet deep. (denver.cbslocal.com image)

The site of Saturday’s avalanche near Loveland Pass, Colo. Reports indicate that some blocks of snow were the size of golf carts, and that the avalanche was up to 8 feet deep. (denver.cbslocal.com image)

Some truly horrible news out of Colorado Saturday night, where an avalanche near Loveland Pass killed four snowboarders and one skier.

A report from CBS News says the slide was 200 yards wide and 8 feet deep. CBS identified those killed as 32-year-old Christopher Peters, of Lakewood; 32-year-old Joseph Timlin, of Gypsum; 33-year-old Ryan Novack, of Boulder; 36-year-old Ian Lanphere, of Crested Butte; and 33-year-old Rick Gaukel, of Estes Park. One person survived and was able to dig out to report the incident to authorities.

The Adventure Journal reports that Timlin was the sales manager for a number of snowboard industry brands. Lamphere, a skier, was the owner of Gecko Climbing Skins and the co-founder of Backcountry TV and the Stowe Mountain Film Festival.

A lot of snow had fallen in the area, and the report says the Colorado Avalanche Information Center had warned of risky avalanche conditions.

The avalanche occurred in a backcountry area near the Loveland Ski Area, but was not inside the boundaries of the resort.

Backcountry skiing and snowboarding has become increasingly popular in recent years, mostly because of the promise of no crowds, fresh snow and the added challenge. Not to mention, the appeal of not having to buy increasingly pricey lift tickets.

The Adventure Journal posted this graphic of increasing avalanche deaths from the CAIC:

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Improved technology in terms of safety equipment has also given more people the drive to try their hand at backcountry skiing and boarding.

The CBS report notes that all members of the group were wearing avalanche beacons. Other reports note that the group was experienced in the backcountry.

The site of Saturday's avalanche at Loveland Pass. (denver.cbslocal.com image)

The site of Saturday’s avalanche at Loveland Pass. (denver.cbslocal.com image)

The Denver Post has done some thorough reporting on this, noting that it’s the deadliest avalanche to hit Colorado since a 1962 slide killed seven people. The Post also quotes one expert as saying that current conditions — recent snowfall, snowpack instability and high winds — makes it much less like April (when the snowpack tends to consolidate and stabilize) and more like February, when conditions are normally more unstable and dangerous.

The following video gives additional reporting, though they do not ID the victims.

Weekly Stoke: Surviving in a snow cave, avalanche tragedy, lost hikers found and a different kind of bike ride

Something I’ve thought about doing for some time is posting some things in the news that I’ve seen that might interest folks like you and me. So I’m going to set aside a weekly space for some of the stories that caught my attention, and might also stoke yours. Thus is born the Weekly Stoke!

Here goes…

Mount Hood. (Wikipedia Commons photo)

Mount Hood. (Wikipedia Commons photo)

A hiker in Oregon got herself in a bit of trouble on Mount Hood, slipping and falling and injuring her leg. She was able to dig out a snow cave where she rode it out six days before being rescued. Check out the full story and a video here.

A less uplifting story out of Colorado. Some backcountry skiers got caught in a large avalanche, and not all of them survived to tell the tale. An excellent write-up from the Denver Post can be found here.

A day hike in Southern California turned out to be a much more serious ordeal for a group of young hikers this week. This story ends well, however.

And finally, a final tip of the hat to winter on one of the more interesting bike rides you will ever see. Watch the video:

Oklahoma climbing: Quartz Mountain Spring Gathering is April 5-7

Quartz Mountain, also known as Baldy Point.

Quartz Mountain, also known as Baldy Point.

It’s safe to say that Oklahoma is not known as one of the climbing centers if the country, but that belies the fact that there is excellent climbing and bouldering in the Wichita Mountains near Lawton.

One of the prime spots is Quartz Mountain, sometimes known as Baldy Point. Multi-pitch trad routes await on this granite wall that rises out of nowhere on the southwestern Oklahoma prairie.

It’s also the spot for the Quartz Mountain Spring gathering, which is happening April 5-7.

Work is going to keep me from being there, but if you’re in Oklahoma or north Texas and want to get your climb on with a cool crowd, make a weekend of it.

I was reading on a Facebook page for this event a few things that are good to know. Camping is $3 per person per night. There are showers nearby. Camping is pretty much right at the foot of the mountain, so there is a minimal approach and immediate access to a whole bunch of routes to try.

Some more information, this straight from that Facebook page:

Help us protect this pristine area and the privilege to gather here by minimizing your impacts. Please disperse your tent sites, make use of the restroom facilities, and carry-out all trash. By doing so, you will insure that Baldy’s natural resources are protected and that the Park continues to grant the climbing community a special use permit for future events.

Also, please note Quartz Mountain Nature Park’s rules and regulations for the event:

1) No liquor or drugs. Beer is permitted.
2) No firearms.
3) No mountain bikes.
4) No campfires.
5) No tree cutting or trimming.
6) Pets must be on a leash at all times.
7) Barbecue grills are permitted in the parking lot.
8) Bivying and tent camping are permitted 100′ east of the parking lot.
9) Sleeping in your vehicle is permitted.
10) Carry-out and dispose of all trash and waste.

If you want to know more about this event or the Wichita Mountains Climbing Coalition, check out this site. If you have the time and the urge, you should definitely check it out, and maybe do a little exploring in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge while you’re at it. I’m not kidding when I tell you this area is chock full of excellent hiking, climbing and wildlife viewing opportunities.

For more information about Quartz Mountain, as well as directions to get there, go to this link. Enjoy!

Bob Doucette

On Twitter @RMHigh7088

Video: More outdoor awesomeness

I figured this would be a good time for a mid-week video distraction. This three-minute video is filled with some incredible outdoor cinematography in some of the most striking scenery you’ll ever see. It’s compiled by Renan Ozturk of Reel 2013.

Check it out and enjoy it. And have a great day! — Bob

RENAN OZTURK // DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY // REEL 2013 from Camp 4 Collective on Vimeo.

The wonderful, weird allure of the West

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The other day, I was sitting around with a bunch of co-workers as we wished a colleague well during his last days with us. He was leaving to take a job in Pittsburgh, which to me seems like a far-off place in a totally different world from my current home in Tulsa.

Someone asked him if he’d be driving straight through or stopping overnight. He’s choosing the latter, but said the trip can be made in about 15 or 16 hours.

That shocked me. So many states away, and it’s just 16 hours from here?

That’s only two more hours longer than my last trip to western Colorado. You know, that rectangular mass that actually borders my own home state.

It got me thinking about the vastness of the West. The wonderful, weird, wide open vastness of what I think is best in America.

A few hours earlier, I was home watching a re-run of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” program. It was one of my favorite episodes, the one where he hangs out with Queens of the Stone Age’s Josh Homme in the high desert of California. In addition to the coolest soundtrack of any show on TV, it was more of what makes the West so alluring to me. Desperate scenes of civilization clinging to life on the shores of the Salton Sea, a dude who painted a mountain and long stretches of open highway slicing their way through sun-baked, arid wastelands most people would assume avoid.

Vast, wonderful, weird and wide-open.

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Where I live, in my opinion, is sort of the dividing line between east and west. Tulsa is right on the edge of the Ozarks, which I see as being Appalachia lite. Drive a few hours west and you’re in the high plains. And at the edge of that, you hit the Rockies. That’s when things get interesting.

I was born in Illinois and have lived most of my life in Oklahoma, but I grew up in Colorado. Despite this pesky accent I’ve picked up I consider myself a westerner. To this day, I still envision sunsets over the Rockies and associate pines with the high country.

That has had an effect on me. I live here in T-town, but feel compelled to return to what in my mind is my homeland. Sort of a salmon spawning grounds deal, but without the whole breeding/dying/getting-eaten-by-bears thing. Money (or the lack thereof) keeps me from going more often. I’ve got  serious a road trip itch working right now.

My pilgrimages out there have often been with friends and family. A couple of times, they’ve been blessedly solo. However it works, the one thing that is true is that I feel a little more free when I go. Sometimes dangerously so, or at least that’s how it seems – on your own, the comforts of home further and further away, but the promise of seeing something new and possibly transformative pulling you further down the road. Road-tripping is the best form of American escapism there is, and the West is a magnet for dreams of freedom.

And it always has been. Since the founding of the nation, people have looked west to find their dreams or otherwise escape the confines of the life they’d been given.

That’s one of the most interesting aspects of the West. Free spirits, non-conformists, weirdos and outlaws all looked to the wilderness beyond the Mississippi to find new destinies. The profound impact that has had on the American cultural landscape can’t be understated.

I’ve often told people that the further west in America you go, the weirder it gets. Boulder is pretty weird. All those little mountain towns from Montana to New Mexico are pretty weird (even the smallest Montana villages have at least one church and one bar). Roswell is weird. Rural Utah is way weird. In Arizona, Sheriff Joe is not only popular, but politically relevant for his addiction to publicly using his county’s prisoners as his own personal whipping boys. I’ll bet he’s beyond weird.

Some homegrown western weirdness.

Some homegrown western weirdness.

Once you hit the coast, you reach the gleaming metropolises of Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. The further you make your way west and north, the stranger it gets.

And then there’s Alaska. For those fleeing conformity, broken relationships, the law or any other personal demons, there is no further place you can go, at least not in the U.S. You have to be committed to go that far, and even more so to stay. And that makes for a place with some truly colorful personalities – real frontiersmen and women who could actually live libertarian ideals of self-sufficiency, and ex-governors who can see Russia all the way from suburban Anchorage.

People go to these places, and invariably, those places change them. A man who has lived in the mountains or the desert for any length of time won’t look, talk, think or act like someone who has spent their existence in a suburb of Cincinnati or in a borough of New York. Harsher climes and sweeping landscapes alter people in that way, building up quiet strength and self-reliance while stripping away all pretense. Scratching out a living out West will humble and toughen you in ways few other places can. Many folks envy that, which explains why people pay for the privilege of spending a week on dude ranches and will even shell out thousands to outfitters who given them “authentic” backpacking experiences. Guns are scary to most Americans; they’re just tools for many westerners.

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And let’s revisit the landscape. America is filled with gorgeous places. I’ve been out east quite a bit. Pennsylvania and West Virginia are knockout beautiful. Closer to home, northwest Arkansas has the same feel. All throughout the east you have these wonderful hills and mountains, thick woods and meandering rivers.

But it’s also stable. It feels old. Established. And that makes sense, seeing that the communities in the east date back to the 1600s or even earlier, and the Appalachians are some of the most ancient mountains on earth.

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Not so much in the West. While some Spanish settlements are quite old, most cities and towns out West are pretty new, historically speaking. The mountains themselves are younger. Their rise more dramatic, and in the case of the Tetons, startlingly so. The West has volcanoes. One of them famously blew up back in 1980, and we know that some of its Cascadian neighbors could well do the same. The West has glaciers. In one section of Colorado, deep in the San Juans, you can see the rare confluence of geologic uplift, volcanism and glacial carving, sculpting a landscape so wild that it boggles the mind.

Wind gives us the carefully crafted arches and towers of Utah and Arizona. A tiny alpine trickle gathers itself and plummets downhill, gaining strength and size and speed until it slices a gash so long, wide and deep that it can be seen from space.

Towering heights.

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Deep canyons.

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Deserts and rain forests. Grizzly bears, wolves, eagles and whales.

Is there any wonder as to why I just don’t take off right now?

I envision a future trip unfolding like so many others have in the past: I’m in my car, cruising at 75 mph on a two-lane highway with endless vistas of the Oklahoma Panhandle prairie all around. The stereo is up loud, cranking out tunes from U2’s “The Joshua Tree.” In the back, with the seats down, my stuff – a pack, tent, food, mountaineering gear and campsite tools – jostles with the contours of the road.

Then I spot it. Rabbit Ear Mountain, a small peak in the far northeastern corner of New Mexico, a marker of what I see is the easternmost outpost of the Rockies.

I grin a bit. Adventure is close. And I keep driving.

Westward.

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Bob Doucette

On Twitter @RMHigh7088